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June 29, 2002 - Wine, Chocolate and Episode 2 (South Africa)
We crossed into South Africa early Saturday morning and spent the day driving. The landscape went from flat plains to rolling hills to jagged mountains and became increasingly green as we went. Trying to put distance behind us, we made it all the way to Citrusdal for the night. Citrusdal was a small town nestled amongst the mountains and was home to fields upon fields of orange and lemon groves. Vineyards also began to pop up. The following morning we headed for the Winelands proper, passing through Paarl, Franschoek and Stellenbosch. Winter time in the Cape province of South Africa is sadly wet and we had heavy morning rain to prove it, but the scenery was still beautiful. Autumn colours in the leaves of the trees and rolling rocky hills and valleys around us made us feel like we were in Switzerland and Vermont at the same time!
Franschoek, meaning 'French Corner' and home to Huguenot French settlers, was especially beautiful and we spent a bit of time here. We began at Chamonix Winery for a tasting. We sat in a small cozy room with a woodfire stove and deep mahogany tables and benches. The atmosphere was compromised by huge trophy heads of kudu, hartebeest and wildebeest mounted on the walls, but our alcohol tolerance was embarrassingly low enough that little mattered by the time we were finished. We required a stroll around the vineyards and the rest of last nights leftover pizza before driving the short way back into town for our tour and tasting at... drum roll please... the gourmet Belgian chocolate factory!!! Anyone who knows me will quickly realize this was to become a highlight of the entire trip!!! (and Oliver liked it too!) :o) It was fun to see them making the chocolate and even more fun to sample the product! We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Stellenbosch and admiring the unique 'Cape Dutch Architecture', characterized by white washed buildings with elaborately shaped facades. We headed south at the end of the day and followed the road perched on the mountain side as it wound along the south coast of the Cape. We arrived in Hermanus just after sunset. Our purpose in visiting Hermanus was to see the Southern Right Whales who come into Walker's Bay from this time of year until August. There are meant to be great views of them from shore but we had no luck. Even the novel 'Hermanus Whale Crier' (a man looking somewhat sullen while wearing a sandwich board of 'Today's Sightings' and carrying a drum) had nothing to report. We enjoyed our coastal walk nonetheless then headed up to a viewpoint above the town for lunch before heading on to our final destination - Cape Town. On the way, we made a quick stop in Betty's Bay to see the local population of African 'Jackass' Penguins, so called for the apparent donkey-like noise they make. We didn't hear this noise but enjoyed watching them do that stereotypical wing-flapping waddle they do so well. Coming in to Cape Town from the east, we passed huge stretches of 'townships' by the side of the highway. Depressingly, these cluttered areas of mismatched corrugated metal shacks looked to lack plumbing, sewage and adequate electrical facilities. They were a sad reminder of South Africa's very recent history of racism and the apartheid government. Passing around the flanks of Table Mountain, we entered the city centre and checked in to the Metropole Hotel. We celebrated the end of our travels with a fabulous seafood meal at a posh waterfront restaurant then headed to the cinema for a long-awaited viewing of Star Wars: Episode 2. We spent Tuesday strolling around the city and visiting the top of 1073m Table Mountain by cable car. Luckily, the skies were clear and the views in all directions breathtaking - we could see the Cape of Good Hope to the south, Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela's prison was located) to the west and the city of Cape Town to the north. Our last night and morning in Africa flew by and we were off to the airport for the long journey home. I now write from the comforts of home and am happy to report that our journey went smoothly and on time. We are glad to be back in wonderful and familiar Canada and back to summer weather! Cape Town was cold and wet. It's now time to ease back in to 'normal' life, whatever that might become. I am just glad to have the opportunity to relive the trip all over again with 32 rolls of film ready for pick-up tomorrow! > See photos from the whole Africa trip. > See photos from South Africa. > See other Africa journal entries. Back to top |
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